Ombre Elephant Nursery Art

This was an incredibly easy, 10 minute project. The best part is that I was able to reuse paint samples I had picked up from Benjamin Moore when deciding which colour to paint the Turquoise antique dresser, so this art perfectly matches the nursery.

I previously punched out elephants from paint samples, as you can see in my previous post, Colourful Elephants using Paint Samples and Martha Stewart Punch, which is what inspired me to do this project. 

Instructions

Cut out the backdrop

Use the paper insert from the frame as a guide, as you can see in the picture below.

Cutting out the backdrop to fit the frame

Cut out your shapes

I used 4 different paint samples (Benjamin Moore 2043, 2044, 2045 and 2046) which each had 4 shades of a single colour. I punched an elephant from each shade on each sample to end up with 16 elephants.

Elephants, ready to go!

Line up the shapes on a grid

The easiest way to ensure that they line up is to use a grid. I used a cutting mat for this, but even simply lined paper will go a long way to helping you space these out evenly.

Line up elephants using a grid to space out evenly

Use the foam dots to glue on the shapes, one row at a time

Placing the foam dot on the back of the elephant

Sticking elephants to backdrop one at a time

Finished product, prior to framing

Ombre elephant nursery art, ready for framing

And here's a sneak peak of the next frame I'll be making...

Yellow ombre elephant nursery art

If you decide to do this project, email me a picture! I'd love to see what you come up with!

Materials

Cardstock or paper for backing

Paint samples matching your nursery, one for per row

Double-sided adhesive foam dots, I purchased a package of 100 for $1.50 at Michaels

Craft punch in an interesting shape - Martha Stewart makes punches with butterflies, ladybugs, hearts!

Shadow frame, I used an old Ikea Ribba 5 1/2" x 5 1/2" but any shadow frame will do

Tutorial: Back-Tab Blackout Curtains

After hours of scouring for elegant yet fun blackout curtains for the nursery, I opted to make my own with fabric I found online. The finished panels are about 55" wide by 91". The width is convenient as the fabric comes in about 56" widths which means one less seam to try and cut perfectly straight.

The most difficult part is handling such a large amount of fabric! I highly recommend setting yourself up on a table that can accommodate the full width of the panel, ideally rectangular. Also, I don't think I would make panels this large with a sewn-in blackout liner again. With this much fabric, it would have been simpler to sew the panels and then purchase hook-on blackout panels from any hardware store or Walmart. If you decide to go that route, buy them before making your panels. You'll need to make sure your panels are slightly wider than these, and that they have the same amount of tabs as the blackout has loops and are spaced equally as well. 

As you'll see from the pictures below, I am not a professional seamstress, and I use tools I have from around the house. Happy sewing!

Instructions

Prepare the fabric

Although the lining I selected isn't officially washable, I opted to pre-wash and dry the decorative fabric on low (Fabric.com recommends hang drying) to pre-shrink it in case I decide to brave washing them with the lining in the future. You can skip this step if you don't plan to wash these anytime soon or if the fabric you're using is dry-clean only.

Cut the fabric and lining

Tip: If your fabric is very wrinkled, you may want to iron it prior to cutting.

Lining
Cut the blackout lining to desired size of the finished panel. Because it will be directly tucked and sewn into the decorative fabric, there is no need to allow for additional seam allowance. In my case, the fabric was exactly 54" wide. To save myself trouble, I decided not to cut down the width, and only cut it on the length to 91". I used a square  to mark a straight line across with a pencil and then cut along it using scissors.

Using a square and large ruler to mark the fabric

Decorative Fabric
I wanted each panel to be 91" long, so I measured out 101": 91" length + 5″ for the bottom hem and 5″ for the top hem.

Position the lining

1. Position the top of the lining exactly 5 inches from the top of the decorative fabric.
   
2. Center the lining between the sides of the decorative fabric.

Pin the lining in place

Iron and fold each side of the decorative fabric over the lining twice, about 1/2" then another half an inch, and pin all along the side. Repeat on the other side.

Lining pinned in place along both sides

Sew the side seams

Simply sew along the edge, holding it tightly as you feed it through to help ensure the panel is straight and the fabric doesn't slip.

Side seam sewn with lining in place

Pin the top of the panel with back tabs in place

1. Fold over and iron an inch from the top, ensuring that you still have 4 inches between the lining and the edge of the folded fabric. 
2. Fold and iron the remaining 4 inches over the lining for a nice polished look. Use a square to verify that your panel is still straight after you fold it over, adjust if required. My corners were not perfectly square, so I cheated and tucked in the side edges as well to ensure it doesn't show on the front.
   

   

   Ensure the top is 4" wide

3. Cut the correct number of back tabs for each panel. For 55" panels, I use 10 each, for a total of 20 back tabs. Each has a length of 6". I'm using leftover ribbon since it won't show, and have a variety of colours, but you can use a single one, whatever you have so long as its between 1 and 2" in width and all tabs are the same width.
4. Pin the two side backtabs in an inch from the edge. Tuck one side of the tab under where you've folded in an inch of the fabric, and then fold the top down twice before pinning to the top of the panel.

   

   Pin the side back tabs an inch from each edge

5. Calculate the spacing distance between each remaining back tab. Measure the distance between the two pinned back tabs. In my case, this distance was 51 1/4 because my panel is actually 55" 1/4. I have 8 tabs left to place, and each is exactly an inch wide, so Each backtab should be between 5 and 6 inches apart.
   ((Distance between side tabs) - ((Number of remaining back tabs) x (Width of back tab))) / (Number of remaining back tabs) = (Space between back tabs)
   (51 1/4 - (8 x 1)) / 8 = 5.41"
6. Position back tabs according to the distance calculated above. Its hard to be precise to 5.41", so I chose to pin one to each side working my way towards the middle since I figured it'd be less obvious if the middle was slightly off rather then one side. 

   

   Pin each back tab 5" - 6" apart

Sew the top of the panel

Sew all four edges of the top. Start with the bottom seam and then continue along the side, the top, and finally the last side.

Sew along bottom seam

You now have a single panel complete on three sides, only requiring the bottom edge to be hemmed.

Complete the same 3 edges of the second panel

I have little faith in my ability to make perfect-length panels, so here's how I cheated: I made both panels, leaving the bottom edge unsewn. I then hung them on the curtain rod (prior to installing the curtain rod in my case) to verify the final length. Finally, I marked the actual length I wanted with a pencil on both panels, instead of the exact 91" I had previously measured. The rod we're using is quite fat, so the curtains were about two inches shorter than I intended for them to be. It means I have a small area that isn't lined at the bottom, but I think that's a worthwhile compromise as it doesn't show. The curtains are the absolute perfect length, and the rod is located exactly where I wanted to hang it, mid-way between the top of the window and the ceiling.

Hem the curtains

For preparation, follow the same instructions as the top, skipping the backtabs. If you've adjusted the length, then you may need to adjust how much you fold over as a result.

To sew the bottom, sew only the top seam, you don't need to sew the absolute bottom edge or side edges.

Completed bottom hem

Install!

And did I mention iron?

Blackout back-tab curtains

Material

Decorative fabric. I used Premier Prints Fancy Dot Twill Mint.
Lining fabric. I used Roc-Lon® Blackout Drapery Lining White.
Ribbon, bias tape or extra fabric for the back tabs, should be between 1" and 2" in width
Sewing machine and thread
Pins
Iron and a surface to iron on
Scissors
A square and/or long ruler

References

OnlineFabricStore.net: How to Sew Lined Back Tab Curtains (Tutorial)
Tutorial: How to Sew Lined Back-Tab Curtains
Position Curtains: Decorator Alexa Hampton explains how high to hang 'em



Looking for more inspiration? Here are some other tutorials you might like!

Tutorial: Painted Antique Dresser

I decided to use my grandmother's antique dresser for the nursery. However, before it came into my care it already had some pretty bad watermarks from plants on the top (easily 1/8" deep!), handles were broken and missing, and some of the drawers were coming apart. Overall, it needed a lot of love in order to be able to function on a day-to-day basis. Even now I'm not convinced that the bottom two drawers will be up to the task given that they require two hands to be opened --- but it will look great!

Before

After

Instructions

Prep the dresser

Depending on  the condition of your dresser, some of these steps can be skipped. This is by far the piece of furniture that was in the worst condition of all that I've refinished, so it required all of these steps prior to painting it.

• Use a screwdriver to remove the handles from each drawer. I also had to remove the keyholes using a very small flat screwdriver to pry out the nails without breaking the keyholes.
• Remove each drawer and assess whether the bottom is solid. In my case, the two large bottom drawers were not. Flip each drawer over. The way that this particular dresser is made, the bottom slides out and is tacked in place along the back edge of the drawer using nails. I removed the small nails using the back of a hammer and slid the bottom of the drawer out. I then applied glue to the three other edges. Finally, I slid it back in as tightly as possible and used the hammer to replace the nails along the back edge.
  

  Corner glued back in place

  Nails tacked back in after glueing the drawer

• Fill in any noticeable gaps with wood filler. You can just use your finger to get it into the gap and to ensure that it leaves a smooth surface. Here's a picture of a finished edge along which I used wood filler. The entire side had a gap, you can still see a small spot along the top edge that I missed if you look closely. 

  

  The result of using wood filler

• Smooth out marks using polyfill. I had two big circle watermarks that were very deep, and the wood filler just didn't work well for these. Instead use a large spatula and polyfill, just as if you're filling in a wall dent prior to painting. Once dry, sand it smooth using fine grit sandpaper. You might want to perform this step twice to get a smoother finish.
• Once the wood filler and polyfill are dry, sand the rest of the dresser lightly. This is especially important if it has a shiny finish as mine did. 

Prime

In the past I've skipped the primer, but because this dresser was so shiny I didn't want to risk it. Additionally, given that the dresser is going into the nursery I chose to use a zero VOC primer for this task.

Using a brush, apply primer to all of the detailed edges and gaps. Then, use a foam roller for all of the large surfaces including the front of the drawers.

Only one coat of primer is necessary. Wait an appropriate amount of time according to the primer's directions prior to painting the first coat of paint. I waited overnight.

Paint

Pour paint into a small paint tray which will also work for the foam roller. Using a brush, apply paint to the detailed edges and gaps of one side. Ideally before it dries, use the foam roller to apply paint to the large areas connected to this section. Because the paint I selected is meant for cabinets, it's self levelling, so painting the edges and the large surfaces at the same time creates a smoother finish. Repeat until you've painted all areas of the dresser and drawer.

Don't forget to paint some of the area inside the dresser! Depending on the fit of the drawers, some of it will show. You may want to mark these out with a pencil so you know where to stop. If the inside of your dresser is nice and straight, you can also use painter's tape to get a clean line. In my case, given all of the curves I decide to eyeball it instead of striving for perfection.

Paint inside the dresser to ensure no wood shows when the drawer is closed

Let dry according to paint instructions. If you're not sure, 24 hours is usually a good guess.

Sand very lightly between coats using very fine sandpaper. Wipe with a clean damp cloth and let dry prior to applying the next coat of paint.

Paint the second coat of paint similarly to the first. If you notice any spots you missed the first time, paint them first so that you can go over them again as you complete your second coat.

Bringing it all together

One of the knobs was broken, so I had to replace both of them. I went to every antique store relatively close to downtown Ottawa, and the only store I was able to find which had any handles was Yardley's Antiques. It took scouring through multiple drawers, but I landed upon these knobs, which are a little lighter in colour than the original but I decided I would tolerate anyway.

New knob to replace broken one

Additionally, I was missing a handle for one of the large drawers, so I chose to replace two of them (but not all!) to get a more consistent look. Luckily I still have the pull holders for either end, so I only needed to find the dangling handle part which proved to make the task easier, though not as straightforward as I'd hoped. I found knobs that I thought would work at Yardley's, but they were too large by a mere 1/8". We tried to drill the hole a tad bit larger to make it fit, but there was no way that it would be possible to pull the handle up, so we decided to look for another alternative.

My parents were kind enough to try a store in Montreal, Spazio Antiquités Architecturales, where they came upon these two options:

Option 1 on the top: Preferred because of the detail and the color to help pull in the new knobs, but slightly large

Option 2 on the right: Simpler and more likely to fit the dresser

Since the 1/8" of an inch made a difference the first time, they purchased both with the promise that they could return the set that didn't fit. Turns out only Option 2 fit, so there was no decision to be made! Below you can see the new handles on the middle drawer, alongside the old handles on the bottom drawer.

Above: Installed replacement handle
Below: The original handle

If the inside of your drawers needs a lift, you can also make drawer liners as I did.

Et voila! a beautiful dresser and change table to be!

Finished dresser

Material and Tools

Paint, I used Benjamin Moore ADVANCE® Waterborne Interior Alkyd Paint in Bahama Green because its Low VOC. An alternative I've used in the past which is slightly higher VOC but claims to be very resilient and prevents chipping is CIL Smart3 for Furniture and Cabinets.

Primer, I used CIL Premium Primer Sealer for Interiors because its Zero VOC. 

Replacement knobs and handles for any that are broken or missing

Screwdriver

Wood filler (optional)
Polyfill (optional)

Medium and fine grit sandpaper
Hammer (optional)
Wood glue (optional)

Tutorial: Fabric Drawer Liners for Curved Drawers

I refinished my grandmother's dresser for the nursery, but being completely handmade and 100 years old, the bottom of the drawers wasn't very smooth for storing clothing. Hence these lovely liners!

There are various ways of making liners, I selected this one because it didn't require the liners to be glued to the bottom of each drawer in order for the liners to stay in place. This tutorial was my inspiration -- you should take a look at it for additional pictures of the stiffening step!

Completed project - Elephant drawer liners

Instructions

Create a template for each type of drawer

This dresser has two small drawers, one medium one and two very large ones. Each drawer is curved uniquely. I decided to create templates for each type, but ensured not to follow it too closely to allow for variation between the drawers.

Using newspaper, line up a square edge with the back and side of the drawer as best you can. In my case, the corner of the drawer wasn't square, so I pushed it into the corner using a fingernail and then used an exacto to cut along the seam. 

Newspaper line up to the back of the drawer, showing a small gap on the side edge

Using a fingernail to press newspaper into the edge to cut it down to the right size

For a small drawer, just press the opposite side edge of the newspaper in with a fingernail then trim with an exacto or scissors. 

If the drawer is larger than a single sheet of newspaper, take a second piece of newspaper and repeat the above for the other back corner, than tape the two together in the middle after lining up the side edges. 

At this point, you should have a large rectangular base. 

Making sure the back two corners of the newspaper are nicely aligned to the inside back of the drawer, use a pencil and your nails to press the paper into the front of the drawer to trace out the shape.

Once traced, cut to measure. I recommend leaving a little extra as you cut, its easier to remove than to add. Test it out inside the drawer and trim until it fits.

Cut the fabric into rectangles which are almost the right size

Using the templates you've created, cut rectangular pieces of fabric to just barely fit the template. Make sure to cut enough for all of the drawers, in my case I ended up with 5 rectangles. 

Use the stiffener to stiffen the fabric

Set yourself up in an easy to wipe down and well ventilated area, with rags ready to wipe up any mess. Ideally, if you have a clothes line, you'll want to do this step outside. I did it in our spare washroom, with hangers and pins lined up above the bathtub ready to hang each piece of fabric.

• Mix equal parts water and stiffener in a large bowl. Note: The bottle says to use only stiffener and to brush it on, but I followed Nalle's advice on this one.

• One liner at a time, place the full amount of fabric in the bowl and ensure its fully submerged. I didn't fold it neatly because it didn't fit in the bowl I was using. 

• Rinse the liner, trying to ring out as much of the water and stiffener as possible, while also smoothing out the fabric to prevent it from stiffening.

• Hang it or lay it flat to dry. If you hang these, you may find the top dries faster then the bottom, so you might want to rotate them half way through dying to ensure even drying speed of the entire liner.

• Before any part of the fabric is completely dry, iron the liner! I actually waited a little too long on a couple and as a result there are a few spots I couldn't iron completely flat.

• Tip: I placed an old pillow case on the ironing board to protect the ironing board cover just in case.

• Hang it back up to dry, perhaps rotating it again to ensure even drying. For the smaller liners, I laid them flat at this point. Notice below that one edge is dryer and more wavy than the other, that's from originally hanging it to dry which doesn't allow for even dying speed.

Almost dry! 

Cut to exact size

You now have large stiff rectangles of fabric to trim down to size.

• Using the correct newspaper template you created, carefully cut out the fabric with a sharp pair of scissors. Make sure the right side is up on both the template and liner! On the curved edge, you might want to allow for a bit of extra, as I found my templates to be imperfect, and each drawer to be slightly unique.

• Place the liner in the drawer, and use your fingernail to mark the exact position of the curved edge before cutting with a pair of scissors. This might take a few times to get right, just cut a little at a time

• Iron one last time before finally placing in the drawer.

A drawer and liner

Completed Project

Because I let the liners dry a little too much prior to ironing, my liners didn't turn out as perfectly ironed as Nalle's look. Luckily, no one seems to have noticed but me. :)

I simply love the extra pop these give against the bright colour of the dresser. 

Material and Tools

Fabric. I used Premier Prints Elephant Twill White/Storm.
Mod Podge Fabric Stiffener. I was able to find it at Michaels. 
Newspaper
Scissors and/or exacto knife
Iron and ironing board
Large mixing bowl
Rags

References

Nalle's House - DIY FABRIC DRAWER LINERS